Being a circular route, the Tour of Mont Blanc could be walked in either a clockwise or an anti-clockwise direction, and started from any one of a number of places. By tradition it has begun in the Chamonix valley (the Vallée de l’Arve), but not in Chamonix itself, for in order to make the most of the splendid views afforded of Mont Blanc from the slopes of the Aiguilles Rouges chain, the route avoids the bed of the valley except to cross it at either end. Instead, by tradition the TMB begins about 7km downvalley from Chamonix, in Les Houches, and tackles the circuit in an anti-clockwise direction.

From here the way climbs to Col de Voza, then divides. One option descends on the far side to Bionnassay, Le Champel and Les Contamines in the Val Montjoie which cuts along the western edge of the Mont Blanc range. The other, and more challenging, option goes up the slope towards the Bionnassay glacier, then descends below its snout before climbing to Col de Tricot, dropping to the delightful Chalets de Miage, then climbing again to cross a shoulder of Mont Truc before descending at last to Les Contamines, where the two routes coincide.

An hour’s gentle valley stroll leads to the celebrated church of Notre-Dame de la Gorge, beside which a paved mule path dating from Roman times rises into a lovely hanging valley that grows wilder as height is gained towards Col du Bonhomme, which in turn directs the route up another 150m to the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme at 2483m (8146ft). On the south side of the saddle stands a large refuge owned by the CAF (Club Alpin Français), enjoying fine views to Mont Pourri and the Tarentaise mountains.

The continuing route of the TMB descends to the Vallée des Glaciers, but here again there are two ways of achieving this. The most direct goes straight down below the refuge to join the valley at the hamlet of Les Chapieux, while the alternative cuts left at the Col de la Croix and heads up to the barren Col des Fours, from which a surprise view is gained of Mont Blanc peering above a distant ridge linking the Trélatète with Aiguille des Glaciers. Descent from Col des Fours is by way of a steep slope of scree and pasture leading to farm buildings at the Ville des Glaciers, some way upvalley beyond Les Chapieux. A short walk up a track from here brings you to the Refuge des Mottets, ideally situated at the foot of the climb to Col de la Seigne.

The 2516m (8255ft) saddle of Col de la Seigne is at once the gateway into Italy and a magnificent viewpoint. Mont Blanc is seen to advantage from here, set off as it is by the contrast of a deep sweeping valley, the limestone slabs of the Pyramides Calcaire and a long view which shows the Italian flank of the range in sharp profile. It’s one of the finest panoramas of the whole walk, and one to absorb at leisure.

When at last you tear yourself away, a path descends gently across pastures into the Vallon de la Lée Blanche, in effect the upper reaches of Val Veni, which cuts directly below the mountains’ feet. Before reaching the valley bed, however, Rifugio Elisabetta is seen off to the left, backed by the Trélatète and Glacier de la Lée Blanche that cascades behind the hut. Easy walking brings the TMB down to Lac Combal and the huge moraine wall of the Miage glacier, then the path swings to the right and makes a long ascent of hillside which directs the route to the ski slopes of Col Chécrouit. Until these are reached, this stage of the trek is quite simply magnificent. Step by step the route parallels the south side of the Mont Blanc range with views of indescribable beauty, sometimes doubled and inverted by reflection in a wayside pool. In fact the walk from Col de la Seigne to Col Chécrouit would alone make the TMB worth tackling.

At the col the way forks once more. The direct route to Courmayeur descends via the crowded but attractive village of Dolonne, while the alternative option cuts down into the Val Veni opposite the Brenva glacier, then curves round the base of Mont Chétif for a final road walk into town.

Courmayeur is to the Italian side of Mont Blanc what Chamonix is to the French, but it’s much smaller and better contained than its counterpart on the other side of the mountain, has long been known for its mineral springs and today enjoys an atmosphere conducive to relaxation. Should you feel in need of a day’s rest, Courmayeur is the place for it.

Yet again the TMB walker is faced with a choice of routes. Above Rifugio Bertone, the main TMB has been routed along the bewitchingly scenic north flank of Mont de la Saxe to Rifugio Bonatti, while its former course – a more demanding one now used as a variante – continues steeply uphill to gain the Mont de la Saxe ridge, famed as a belvedere from which to study the Grandes Jorasses across the depths of Val Ferret. At the end of this ridge Col Sapin lies at the head of the little Val Sapin through which a bad-weather alternative route rises from Courmayeur. From the col the two variantes cross the head of the Armina glen, then climb to Pas Entre-Deux-Sauts at 2524m (8281ft) which gives access to the pastoral Vallon de Malatra, and there join the main route at the Bonatti hut, named after the celebrated Italian mountaineer. From here the way remains high above the Val Ferret on another gloriously scenic path, only descending to the bed of the valley just below Rifugio Elena which lies at its head.

Above the Elena refuge the tour crosses into Switzerland at the Col du Grand Ferret (2537m, 8323ft), then slopes down across a succession of pastures to the Swiss Val Ferret, a gentle valley that marks the eastern extent of the Mont Blanc range. There are several small villages and hamlets of timber and stone buildings strung along the valley, and the TMB visits most of them. Apart from an optional high trail between the dairy farm of La Peule, and the hamlet of Ferret, the route stays low, gaining snatches of views rather than the more open vistas of the Italian flank, yet it’s a very pleasant walk all the same, with plenty of variety to maintain one’s interest.

Towards the northern end of the valley the path climbs through forest and emerges at the lakeside resort of Champex, from where backward views are dominated by the Grand Combin. Out of Champex the route divides once more. The generally accepted main route passes through the hamlets of Champex d’en Haut and Champex d’en Bas, then follows an undulating course in and out of woodland and over high pastureland to the Bovine alp (with views into the Rhône valley) before reaching the road pass of Col de la Forclaz overlooking the Vallée du Trient and the village from which it takes its name.

The alternative to the Bovine route is a tough but rewarding crossing of the steep and rocky Fenêtre d’Arpette, which at 2665m (8743ft) shares with Col des Fours (the alternative route to the Vallée des Glaciers) the honour of being the highest point on the Tour of Mont Blanc. The Fenêtre provides a sudden, spectacular view as you emerge through a narrow gap to be confronted by the icefall of the Trient glacier just ahead. The way then leads down alongside the glacier to a path which accompanies a bisse, or irrigation channel, but with another option to consider. The bisse path contours along the hillside to the Col de la Forclaz, where it meets the Bovine option, while a second route crosses the glacial torrent on a footbridge, then faces yet another choice. Either continue downvalley to Trient, or bear left and climb the western hillside to Refuge les Grands.

Col de Balme on the Franco-Swiss border is the next place to aim for. One route climbs to the pass from Trient through a little valley drained by the Nant Noir stream, the other tackles a steeply sloping hillside above Refuge les Grands, the two routes joining at the refuge on the summit of the pass. Col de Balme reintroduces TMB walkers to France and the Vallée de l’Arve spread out below. A broad path swings down the slope to Le Tour at the head of the valley, but another and more scenic trail goes along the crest of the Aiguillette des Posettes before dropping steeply to the hamlet of Tré-le-Champ.

On leaving Tré-le-Champ the TMB climbs at first through forest, then over more open and rocky ground within the Réserve Naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges. Reaching the base of the Aiguillette d’Argentière, the way ascends a series of metal ladders, rungs and handrails fixed against abrupt rock walls – definitely not for the faint-hearted! Fortunately an easier alternative is provided on a path that enters the nature reserve at Col des Montets, and the two routes amalgamate at the top of the ladder route where a huge cairn stands at a junction of paths looking across to the Mer de Glace and along the chain of mountains to Mont Blanc. The onward route eases along the hillside 1000m or more above the valley, passing below a fine waterfall and eventually reaching the Refuge la Flégère set beside a cableway that rises from Les Praz de Chamonix. Across the valley the ice river of the Mer de Glace directs your gaze past the Aiguille Verte and Drus to the big wall of the Grandes Jorasses, a stunning view that ensures a night spent at La Flégère will be truly memorable. An alternative trail visits the higher Refuge du Lac Blanc and the justifiably famous tarn beside it.

The final stage of the Mont Blanc circuit is a constant adoration of the Monarch of the Alps as the way continues high above the valley, crosses the hillside to the ski area of Plan Praz, then goes up a winding trail to Col de Brévent, where you may be lucky to catch sight of the elusive bouquetin, or ibex, followed by an undemanding climb to the summit of Le Brévent itself. The 2526m (8287ft) crown of this mountain was acknowledged more than two centuries ago as presenting an unrivalled view of Mont Blanc, and it’s fitting that the TMB should come here on the final day. A simple restaurant on the very summit provides ample excuse to sit with a cool drink to enjoy that wonderful panorama and reflect on the journey that has brought you this far, before making the steep and knee-trembling descent all the way to the valley bed 1500m (4900ft) below, then up to Les Houches, where the long walk began.

Or, of course, you could tackle the route in a clockwise direction.

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The nearest international airports to Chamonix are in Lyon and Geneva. The latter is a more popular choice as there are direct bus transfers from here, taking about 1 hour 30 minutes. From Lyon, you can travel by train to Annecy and connect to Chamonix or take a bus transfer. Annecy has a provincial airport. Click here to buy flight tickets.

The nearest train station is Chamonix Mont-Blanc. By train, you can catch the high-speed TGV to Annecy, from where the journey by regular SNCF train is about 30 minutes, as it winds its way up the valley. This particular train is an antique electric train, and the journey is a charming one, offering excellent views of the valley. Rail services from Geneva to Chamonix aren’t very practical, involving several changes. Click here to buy rail tickets.

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